Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne to White Wolf

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Features Commonly Backpacked · River/Creek · Views · Waterfall · Wildflowers · Wildlife

The full hike from Tuolumne Meadows to White Wolf follows the Tuolumne River as it descends from the high Sierra Meadows to end up in the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, passing countless waterfalls amid astounding granite walls. This trek can be completed in either direction as a point-to-point, or you can choose any turnaround point to make an out-and-back. Due to the popularity of this hike, it is recommended to apply for a permit several months in advance.

The 30-mile thru hike can be done in either direction, it just depends how you want to enter and exit the canyon. Starting from Tuolumne Meadows, the trail descends 4200 feet steadily with a couple of uphill sections over roughly 20 miles, and then you have to climb steeply 3600 feet out of the canyon in about 4 to 5 miles, followed by a gentle uphill into White Wolf. If you start at White Wolf, you have a steep descent into Pate Valley then spend the next 20 miles hiking gradually uphill. Speaking to people who have done it both ways, opinions seem to be split on which is best -- meaning there's no wrong choice! In the climb up to White Wolf, water can be scarce later in the summer so make sure to fill up before tackling that part of the trail.

The trail starts in Tuolumne Meadows, and can begin from several spots. Most people park along the road beyond Lembert Dome or in a parking lot at the end of the road, hike past the gate and then start making your way toward Soda Springs and Parsons Lodge. As you hike out, you'll see the Cathedral Range with views of Echo Peaks, Cathedral Peak, and numerous domes in the region.

At 3.5 miles, you cross two bridges over the Tuolumne River as it begins cascading down into the canyon. Numerous small waterfalls follow the trail before Tuolumne Falls and then White Cascade appear near the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp and backpacker camp. If you started late and have a permit, this is a great place to spend your first night. Over the next two miles, you are treated to wonderful views of California Falls, LeConte Falls, and the Waterwheels.

There are numerous campsites near these waterfalls that make great places to stay and enjoy the falls in the mornings and evenings. After passing the Waterwheels, the trail climbs up the hillside and then starts descending steeply down into the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. The trail crosses Return Creek at 9.6 miles and then crosses over a shoulder to get around Muir Gorge.

The trail moves along the river for long periods of time, making drinking water easy to come by. At mile 14.7, you cross Register Creek and then emerge into an oak forest. You quickly approach Pate Valley, where there is a great backcountry site near excellent swimming holes.

From here, the trail meanders through the woods for a mile or two before the climb up to White Wolf starts in earnest. It takes switchbacks to gain 3600 feet in about 4 miles. Make sure to get an early start in order to avoid the heat of the day. Be on the lookout on the right side of the trail, as a couple wonderful views of Hetch Hetchy appear and provide nice excuses to rest on the climb up.

You'll pass a couple of side trails that offer alternative climbs up to Harden Lake, but they are steeper than moving straight ahead. The trail flattens out as it approaches Harden Lake, where if there is enough water, you can enjoy a swim to cool off in the heat of the day. The trail enters the forest and meanders toward the road.

The final couple of miles is along the road and climbs gently up to White Wolf. If you parked at White Wolf, your hike is finished. If the gate is still closed, you have another mile of road hiking to get to the gate along Tioga Road where your car is parked. While you might be able to do this hike in 2 days, it is a very pleasant hike if you make it a 3-day hike staying around Glen Aulin the first night, Pate Valley the second night, and then climbing out on the final day.

In the summer, wildflowers can be seen blooming along the length of the trail. Deer can be seen in Tuolumne Meadows, black bears are commonly seen in Pate Valley. Rattlesnakes are sometimes seen along the lower reaches of the trail, so watch your step! Osprey and hawks can be seen along the Tuolumne River.