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With a good 4WD car (Jeep, FJ, Xterra, etc.) a competent driver can make it almost all the way to the start of the Castle Peak trail. Most people will have to park much further down, however, especially during the spring and early summer. During the winter, the road is closed just beyond the lowest point mapped.
Description
This trail is considered difficult Class 2 on loose rock, so make sure that is something you're comfortable with before heading up.
From the upper trailhead at 12,800 ft (see
Castle and Conundrum; top mapped parking), hike into wide open Montezuma Basin. From here, follow a poorly marked and difficult, rocky trail to the climber's left. Your goal is to work your way into the basin below the north face of the peak (there are quite a few climber's trails up to the basin, so use your best judgement on which one avoids the loose scree the best). From the hanging basin you'll see the obvious trail to the east that does a traversing climb 500' to the intersection with the Northeast Ridge. Once on the Northeast Ridge, follow the ridge proper all the way to the summit. It is easy to get suckered west off the ridge in several places, but as many can attest, this will cause you heartache in the long run. Trust that by staying on the ridge as best as possible, you'll be able to scramble on the most solid part of the mountain. A couple hundred vertical feet before the true summit sits a false summit with a saddle in between the two points. On the west side of the saddle is the crux of the climb, a steep and loose step that is best climbed straight up versus swinging around to its east. Take extra care here to avoid the sea of loose bowling ball-sized rocks.
From the summit you have expansive 360° views of rocky summits around you, including
Conundrum Peak to the north that is connected by a fairly easy saddle if you choose to continue on. Otherwise turn back the way you came and be careful as you descend down the loose pile of rubble you just came up!
Flora & Fauna
Up this high, there's not much other than marmots and pika.
Contacts
Shared By:
Tyler Prince
with improvements
by Ashley Peterson
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